This weekend my study abroad program sponsored a trip to the nearby Alpujarras, a rural area of the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains. Aside from the unfortunate realization that it would be our last group trip together, spending a couple days away from the Granada metropolis was most enjoyable.
We visited the western part of the region, which technically belongs to Granada and is known as La Alpujarra. The eastern portion is within the province of Almería and is more correctly called Las Alpujarras. There are three small villages within the region, Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, clusters of white stone houses and churches punctuating the arid landscape. We stayed in a charmingly rustic hotel in Bubión, the middle town, and hiked to Capileira on Friday afternoon and then to Pampaniera on Saturday.
Every time I see the rural side of southern Spain, I like it more and more. La Alpujarra really is a beautiful part of the country, and so different from the mountainous areas of America’s Southeast. Fruit trees and abandoned shepherd outposts dot the hills, and remnants of ancient Roman pathways can be seen snaking toward the peaks. As we walked, our guide Fernando pointed out countless types of plants -- apple, orange, lemon, pear, persimmon, fig and kiwi trees, grape vines, several herbs, and other delightfully edible greens. I like the idea of these growing wild in the hills for anyone to enjoy, and I found it refreshing that our views were never obstructed by a forest of pines like I’m used to in America.
The weather turned out to be agreeable enough, and despite the clouds we were able to see the highest peak of the Sierra Nevada range as well as the horizon of the Mediterranean Sea. Being able to hike among the hills and at one point see both a snow capped mountain and blue ocean water was surreal and fantastic.
We stopped in Capileira on Friday for a brief break, and although the villages are small, we found a market where the freshest, reddest and most delicious strawberries were being sold. Interestingly, we noticed a lot of the locals had fair skin and light hair and eyes and looked unlike the stereotypical “moreno” Spaniard. Everyone spoke perfect Spanish, though, so it’s very likely the area was infiltrated by northern Europeans at some point in history. Later, we passed by a farmer and his goats and sheep on our way to picnic in a pasture overlooking a valley. I could easily have spent hours napping and relaxing in the green grass with a bag full of fruit nearby.
After hiking all morning (and afternoon) on Saturday, we ended our trip in Pampaniera, a pleasant little whitewashed village that refreshingly lacked Granada’s unavoidable crowds of people. Mint and dulce de leche ice cream sweetly finished off the day.
At one point, some of our group lost themselves in the twists and turns of the narrow village streets. We waited by an almond orchard while our guide went back to search for them.
If I had more time here in Spain, a trip back to La Alpujarra would be mandatory. Unfortunately, with only three more weekends in Granada before final exams, I don’t think I want to visit any place twice. I’m rather sad at how fast time as gone by, so I’m going for the more optimistic route and trying to occupy myself with all the wonderful things I still want to do in Granada!
Pampaniera is the little cluster of white on the side of the mountain.
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